An invisible river
In the hills of Bokeo Province, near the town of Houay Xay, lies a feature of the Mekong River that is completely invisible. Buried beneath layers of younger soil and vegetation is a paleochannel—the remnant of an ancient, abandoned river course. This is a former path, but a former path of the mighty Mekong itself, one of Asia's great rivers. Geological studies show this buried channel dates to approximately 40,000 years ago, placing it firmly in the Late Pleistocene epoch.
A paleochannel is identified by its distinct sedimentary structure. Geologists studying the region can detect the channel's existence through satellite imagery, which reveals subtle differences in topography and vegetation, and by drilling sediment cores. These cores show sequences of sand and gravel typical of a large riverbed, which are distinct from the surrounding geology. The sediments within the abandoned channel are how its age is determined. Scientists use a method called Optically Stimulated Luminescence (OSL) dating. This technique measures the last time sand grains were exposed to sunlight, effectively dating the moment the river deposited them and they were buried in darkness.
An Ice Age diversion
The story of how the Mekong abandoned its Houay Xay channel is caused by global climate change during the last Ice Age. Around 40,000 years ago, during a period known as Marine Isotope Stage 3, vast quantities of Earth's water were locked up in continental ice sheets. This caused global sea levels to fall dramatically, dropping by as much as 60 to 80 meters below their present levels.
For a river like the Mekong, which flows nearly 5,000 kilometers from the Tibetan Plateau to the South China Sea, a drop in sea level has a deep effect. The river's final destination—the sea—was suddenly much lower. This increased the river's gradient, making its entire course steeper. The water flowed faster and with much greater erosive power. This energized river was able to carve a new, more efficient path through the landscape. It abandoned its wider, meandering course at Houay Xay and cut the deeper, narrower channel it occupies today. This sudden abandonment of a channel for a new one is a geological process known as avulsion. The old channel was then slowly filled in by millennia of flood deposits and hillside erosion, preserving it as a record of the river's past.