Former penal colony now national park. Biodiversity surveys show 100 years of human exclusion allowed recovery of rare species, showing even harsh human land uses can benefit conservation.
An island shaped by isolation
For over a century, Asinara Island was a place defined by human confinement. This 52-square-kilometer island off the northwestern tip of Sardinia became an agricultural penal colony and quarantine station in 1885, forcing the resident fishing and farming families to relocate. Its isolation intensified during World War I when it was converted into a prison camp for some 24,000 Austro-Hungarian soldiers, about 5,000 of whom died from disease. Later, during the Second Italo-Ethiopian War, members of the Ethiopian nobility were detained here.
In the 1970s, during Italy's "Years of Lead," Asinara was transformed into a maximum-security prison. It housed the most dangerous members of organized crime groups, including Mafia boss Totò Riina, and domestic terrorists from the Red Brigades. The prison system was a network of separate facilities, including the main structure at Fornelli and branches like the one at Cala d'Oliva. The extreme security measures effectively sealed the island off from the outside world until the prison's final closure in 1997.
An unintended ecological experiment
The century of strict isolation had an unexpected consequence: the preservation and recovery of the island's ecosystems. With construction and general access forbidden, nature was left largely undisturbed. Today, Asinara National Park is a wildlife and marine preserve with more than 80 species of terrestrial vertebrates.
The most famous resident is the endemic white Asinara donkey (Equus asinus var. albina). The population of 100 to 120 animals carries a specific missense mutation in the tyrosinase (TYR) gene, which causes their white coat and blue eyes. This genetic trait, a form of albinism, likely became common due to the population's isolation and inbreeding over generations.
The island's fauna includes mouflon, introduced in the 1950s, wild boar, and the Sardinian hare. Its varied habitats support nearly 700 plant species, including 30 endemic species like the spiny cornflower (Centaurea horrida). The skies host about 150 bird species, including the peregrine falcon, while the protected waters flourish with marine life. This recovery has made Asinara an unplanned laboratory for studying the effects of human exclusion on biodiversity.
💡Fun Facts
Anti-mafia judges Giovanni Falcone and Paolo Borsellino briefly lived and worked on Asinara in 1985 for their safety while preparing the Maxi Trial against the Sicilian Mafia.
The island is sometimes called "Isola del Diavolo" (Devil's Island) due to its history as a harsh place of confinement.
During a revolt on October 2, 1979, imprisoned members of the Red Brigades took control of a section of the prison before the uprising was suppressed.
The only successful escape from the maximum-security prison was by the Sardinian bandit Matteo Boe, who fled on an inflatable boat.
The park is accessible year-round, but access to the island is regulated and often requires booking with authorized tour operators.
Admission
Access to the island requires a disembarkation fee. Costs for tours (jeep, boat, bicycle) are set by individual operators.
Accessibility
The terrain is rugged. Most visitors explore via authorized tourist jeeps, a tourist train, or rented bikes in designated areas. Some walking trails are available, but summers can be extremely hot with little shade.